In the heart of the Upper Val Tidone, among the forests of the Oltrepò Pavese Apennines, Trail 12 — known as the Rivarolo Waterfalls Trail — is one of the most evocative nature routes in the Province of Pavia. Starting from the medieval village of Romagnese, the path follows the Rivarolo stream for 3.6 kilometres through dense woodlands, fords and wooden footbridges, eventually reaching Casa Rocchi and the small Madonnina del Fosso shrine nestled into the rock. Along the way, the silence of the forest is broken by the roar of three waterfalls bearing ancient names in the local Oltrepò dialect: an experience that combines wild nature, mountain landscapes and local cultural identity.

Romagnese, a Medieval Village at the Head of Val Tidone

Romagnese is a small village of around 522 inhabitants located in the Oltrepò Pavese area, about 630 metres above sea level, at the head of the Val Tidone valley and just a few kilometres from the Penice Pass. Included in 2012 among the “Jewels of Italy”, the village preserves a centuries-old history: according to local tradition, its origins date back to a camp of Roman legionaries fleeing after their defeat against Hannibal at the Battle of the Trebbia in 218 BC. During the Middle Ages, Romagnese became a fiefdom of the Dal Verme family, granted in 1383 by Gian Galeazzo Visconti to the condottiero Jacopo Dal Verme in recognition of his military campaigns in the Oltrepò region. From the original 14th-century complex, the medieval tower — now housing the municipal offices — and a sandstone portal decorated in the 19th century still survive today.

The village can be reached via the SS 412 Val Tidone road from Milan or the SS 461 Passo del Penice road from Voghera. Parking is available in Via Breda near the sports field, which marks the starting point of the trail.

The Route: From Romagnese Sports Field to Casa Rocchi

Trail 12 begins at the sports field of Romagnese and climbs alongside the Rivarolo stream through an unspoiled woodland environment. The route is marked by yellow trail signs and mostly develops under the shade of the forest, alternating flat sections along the stream with short climbs on natural terrain. The many fords and wooden footbridges encountered along the way keep visitors constantly close to the water, making the trail particularly enjoyable during hot summer days.

Halfway along the trail, two exposed crossings require extra caution, especially when the ground is wet: here a support rope is available to help hikers pass safely. The route officially ends at the Madonnina del Fosso shrine near Casa Rocchi. From this point, hikers may continue on foot to the panoramic Church of Totonenzo, overlooking the Val Tidone valley, before returning to Romagnese either along the same trail or via the paved road.

Technical Information

Length: 3.6 km one way; approximately 5 km in the full version.

Estimated walking time: 1 hour and 12 minutes.

Minimum altitude: 553 metres above sea level.

Maximum altitude: 765 metres above sea level.

Difficulty level: moderate.

Trail markers: yellow signs.

The Three Varö Waterfalls: Ancient Names in the Oltrepò Dialect

The true highlight of Trail 12 is the encounter with the three waterfalls of the Rivarolo stream, locally known as “Varö” in the Oltrepò dialect. Each waterfall bears an ancient name passed down through generations, reflecting the centuries-old bond between the people of Romagnese and their mountain landscape.

The first is Scaion d Massapè, the great waterfall plunging powerfully between the rocks of the valley floor and representing the most impressive cascade along the route. It is followed by the Mirèi di Ghioss and the Mirèi di Rocc: quiet natural pools beneath smaller waterfalls, where the flowing water reflects the filtered light through beech and chestnut trees. These dialect place names, still alive in the local collective memory, preserve a geography experienced and narrated by the community long before it was ever marked on maps.

The trail is especially spectacular in spring and early summer, when rainfall feeds the stream and the waterfalls reach their maximum flow. In late summer and autumn, the route remains equally fascinating, with the forest changing colours and the sound of flowing water accompanying every step.

The Madonnina del Fosso Shrine and the Church of Totonenzo

The trail ends at the Madonnina del Fosso, a small devotional shrine set into the rock near Casa Rocchi and surrounded by small waterfalls. The site has a peaceful and intimate atmosphere, suspended between popular devotion and the surrounding wilderness, making it the ideal place for a contemplative pause before the return journey.

From Casa Rocchi, hikers wishing to extend the excursion can continue to the Church of Totonenzo, a panoramic mountain chapel immersed in the woods, offering open views over Val Tidone and the ridges of Monte Penice. The return to Romagnese can then follow the same trail or descend via the paved road, allowing visitors to adapt the itinerary to their preferences.

Practical Advice for the Hike

Trail 12 can be explored year-round, although it is particularly beautiful in spring and summer when the Rivarolo stream carries abundant water. Hiking boots or sturdy footwear are recommended due to rocky sections, exposed roots and water crossings. The trail is also suitable for children, provided extra care is taken near the two exposed crossings in the central section.

The route can be followed independently using the yellow trail markers, or with a certified hiking and environmental guide for a more in-depth experience focused on the flora and fauna of the Apennines. The return to Romagnese can take place along the same route or via the paved road, adapting the excursion to individual needs.

The main parking area is located in Via Breda, just a short walk from the sports field of Romagnese. Access to the trail is free and open to all visitors.

Romagnese and the Surroundings: What to Visit After the Trek

Romagnese offers many attractions worth exploring beyond the hike itself. In the historic centre visitors can see the 14th-century medieval tower and the Civic Museum of Rural Art, dedicated to the mountain culture of the Apennines. Around 5 kilometres from the village, within the Sassi Neri–Pietra Corva Site of Community Importance, lies the Pietra Corva Alpine Botanical Garden, an extraordinary botanical garden home to approximately 3,000 plant species and also visitable with guided tours upon reservation.

Romagnese is part of a hiking network connecting twelve different trails of varying difficulty levels. Among them, the Romagnese Ring Trail stands out: a ridge itinerary of around 30 kilometres recommended for experienced hikers, crossing the Monte Alpe Nature Reserve and the slopes of Monte Penice with panoramic views over Val Tidone and Valle Staffora.

To complete the experience, visitors can enjoy the local gastronomy: the “Sabiosa”, a traditional Romagnese cake recognised with the De.Co. local designation, is available in village shops and represents the perfect snack after a day spent hiking.

Photo: Gilberto Milanesi