A weekend in Pavia

Countrygirl's tips for a weekend in Pavia and its surroundings

Elisabetta, originally from Pavia but living in Milan for a few years, gives us some tips for a weekend in Pavia and its surroundings through her blog, Countrygirl!

Pavia is a relatively small provincial town, with a population of just under 80,000 and located about 30 km from Milan.

Here, you won’t find either the sea or mountains, and that’s why it’s never at the top of the list for a tourist destination. However, I assure you that a weekend in Pavia can offer a lot. This city has a rich historical and artistic heritage, and it can also offer plenty in terms of nature and food and wine experiences, so don’t be fooled and give it a chance!

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Art and Culture in Pavia — During your weekend in Pavia, you can also find plenty of art. The Fraschini Theatre is a gem nestled in the heart of the city and offers a varied and interesting seasonal calendar. I had the honor of performing on that stage when I danced in the city's schools, and I consider it a great privilege. Not far from the Fraschini, still in the center, you can visit "Kosmos - The Natural History Museum of the University of Pavia," which caters to various types of audiences: students, families, groups, enthusiasts, and casual visitors. In addition to the theatre and the museum, there are often many interesting exhibitions around the city.

Pavia legends — Around halfway down Strada Nuova, on the right as you head towards the Ticino River, if you look up, you can see the Angel of the Plague. It is a bas-relief of an angel pointing to the river, and thus the road out of the city. The legend tells that during a terrible plague, two angels wandered the city—one evil (red) and one good (white), spreading death or healing. To end the epidemic, Bishop San Damiano had the relic of Saint Sebastian's arm brought from Rome, which performed the miracle of animating the white angel. The white angel then met the red one on Strada Nuova and pointed out the way for it to leave the city, taking the plague with it.

Pavia is also home to a famous university. The University of Pavia, where many notable figures have studied, welcomes thousands of students from all over Italy and beyond every year. I myself graduated from this university and am very proud of it! University life has always been a central element around which much of the city revolves. Students are a very important resource. Closely linked to academic knowledge is healthcare; in fact, among the various hospitals in the city, the San Matteo Polyclinic stands out, known nationally and internationally, and is primarily an academic institution.

Nature — The Ticino Park, established in the 1970s to protect the natural territory along the river, covers an area that includes the provinces of Varese, Milan, and Pavia. In the park, you can find numerous trails, and on the "ViviTicino" website, you can choose the ones that best suit you. The S. Alessio Oasis is a protected natural area that hosts many species of birds and other animals. It's a beautiful place suitable for both adults and children. You can plan a picnic during your weekend in Pavia and enjoy a true oasis of nature. Another highlight, when it comes to landscapes, is the Oltrepò Pavese. Gentle, inviting hills that will welcome you, offering beautiful views to enjoy while eating and drinking well. Everywhere, you'll find agritourisms, wineries, and local spots where you can taste cured meats, wine, rice, and other specialties.

Eating and drinking in Pavia — In addition to the food and wine routes in Oltrepò, if I have to mention typical products from Pavia, I would choose Torta Paradiso and Zuppa alla Pavese. Torta Paradiso is a cake created in the 19th century by pastry chef Enrico Vigoni at the request of Marquis Cusani Visconti, who wanted a special dessert. After the first taste, it was called “Torta del Paradiso” (Cake of Paradise), and the name stuck. The Vigoni pastry shop is still located today on Strada Nuova, across from the entrance to the University. Zuppa alla Pavese, on the other hand, has even older origins. It is linked to the Battle of Pavia in 1525. King Francis I of France was held prisoner for a brief period in the Repentita farmhouse, and there a peasant woman fed him by improvising a soup with the ingredients she had on hand: broth, bread, eggs, and cheese.

Personal advice — When you get close to the Ticino River, cross the Covered Bridge and stop to look at the river from one of the little terraces. I love doing this, especially on spring days. Then, make your way to the statue of the Washerwoman and enjoy the view of the city from there.

First of all, Pavia was the capital of the Lombard Kingdom, and you can find this legacy almost everywhere as you walk through the historic center. Starting from the Visconti Castle, you can slowly make your way down to the Ticino River, visiting the center and all the beautiful landmarks it holds.

HERE ARE JUST A FEW OF THEM: The Visconti Castle with the civic museums and the lovely park surrounding it. San Pietro in Ciel D'Oro, a bit hidden but full of beauty. The name comes from the dome inside, decorated with golden leaves. The Cathedral with its splendid dome (one of the largest in Italy), which, for me, means "coming home" every time I spot it from the car. Piazza della Vittoria, the city's "living room," where you can stop for a drink or an ice cream. San Michele Maggiore, a Roman basilica of rare beauty. San Teodoro, famous for its beautiful fresco depicting the city and the Saint. The Covered Bridge, also known as Ponte Vecchio, rebuilt after the bombings of World War II that damaged the previous one. The statue of the Laundress and the Borgo Ticino, which Pavians simply call “the Borgo” or “Borgo Basso,” where you can admire the river and the city.

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