Lomellina is a land of water, history, and traditions in the heart of the Province of Pavia, often referred to as the “Little Loire” because of its high concentration of castles. Here, the vast mirrors of water in the rice fields alternate with medieval villages and nature trails, creating the perfect setting for a romantic getaway. This itinerary highlights unmissable stops such as Vigevano, Breme, Sartirana, the Romanesque jewel of Lomello, and the unique views around Valeggio.

The Charm of the “Chequered Sea”

Lomellina is dominated by water. Rice has been cultivated here for centuries across vast areas that, in spring, are flooded to create what locals call the “mare a quadretti” (chequered sea). This liquid chessboard offers truly unique romantic scenery: the sky reflects in the earth, creating double sunsets of rare beauty. The period between April and May is the golden moment (quite literally) for photographers, while in summer the emerald green of the young rice plants dominates the horizon.

Vigevano: The “Living Room of Italy”

The ideal starting point is Vigevano. The famous Piazza Ducale, designed with contributions from Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci, is considered one of the most beautiful squares in Italy.

Extra tip: Do not limit your visit to the square. Climb the Bramante Tower for a panoramic view over the rooftops and visit the Footwear Museum inside the Castello Sforzesco—an excellence that tells the city’s artisanal history (perfect on a rainy day).

Breme: Abbeys and the Sweetest Onion

Breme is not only about nature, but also ancient history. The village is home to the Abbey of San Pietro, with its evocative thousand-year-old crypt.

Taste: Breme is the homeland of the Red Onion of Breme, exceptionally sweet and easy to digest (a Slow Food Presidia product). If you visit in June, the dedicated festival is a must, but you can buy it or enjoy it as a jam all year round in local shops.

Sartirana Lomellina and the “Pila”

In the heart of Lomellina, the Visconti Castle of Sartirana is an imposing red-brick fortress surrounded by a moat.

Hidden gem: Check the opening of the Pila, the ancient rice-husking warehouse attached to the castle. It is a magnificent example of agricultural industrial archaeology transformed into a cultural space.

Lomello: A Dive into the Middle Ages

You cannot visit Lomellina without stopping in Lomello, which gives its name to the entire region. Here you will find the complex of the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore and, above all, the Baptistery of San Giovanni ad Fontes (5th–7th century), one of the oldest and best-preserved Lombard monuments in Italy. The atmosphere is mystical and silent, perfect for a hand-in-hand stroll through history.

The Castles of Scaldasole and Valeggio

The Castle of Scaldasole is one of the largest fortified complexes in Lombardy—a true village within a village. Nearby, the Castle of Valeggio offers the most iconic view of the area: although it is private and often only admired from the outside, its silhouette emerging from the flooded rice fields is the symbolic image of this territory.

Saturday: Art and Sunsets

• Morning: Arrival in Vigevano. Breakfast in Piazza Ducale and visit to the Castello Sforzesco and the Footwear Museum.

• Lunch: Risotto alla vigevanese or beans and pork rind in a traditional trattoria in the historic center.

• Afternoon: Transfer to Breme. Visit the Abbey and enjoy a walk along the nature trails at the confluence of the Po and Sesia rivers.

• Sunset: Reach the Castle of Valeggio just before sunset. It is the ultimate photo spot to capture reflections in the rice fields.

• Dinner: Traditional restaurant in Mortara or nearby to taste goose-based specialties (see below).

Sunday: History and Nature

• Morning: Visit Lomello (Baptistery and Basilica). A place that fills the eyes with ancient beauty.

  The Pieve of Velezzo, featured on the cover, is certainly an ideal stop to include in a romantic itinerary among villages and rice fields, especially early in the morning or at sunset, when the light enhances the colors of the brickwork and water. It is just 6 km from Lomello, heading north along Provincial Road SP 150.

• Lunch: Stop in Sartirana Lomellina.

• Afternoon: Visit the Castle of Scaldasole. Nature lovers can make a detour to the Celpenchio Heronry (Natural Monument) to see nesting herons—an extraordinary birdwatching experience.

• Check opening times: Many castles in Lomellina are privately owned and open only on special occasions (such as “Open Castles” days in spring/autumn) or by reservation for groups. Always check official websites before leaving; alternatively, the external views are still very rewarding.

• Survival kit (mosquitoes): Being a wetland rich in rice fields, mosquitoes are very common from May to September. A good repellent is absolutely essential to enjoy the evenings. Bring lightweight clothing with long sleeves for sunset.

• What to eat (really):

  • Salame d’Oca di Mortara IGP: The king of local cured meats. Also try smoked goose breast.

  • Frogs: Fried or in risotto, they are the historic dish of the mondine (rice weeders).

  • Risotto: Carnaroli and Arborio rice originate here. Buy a bag of rice directly from one of the many farmhouses (cascine) that sell directly (e.g. around Cilavegna or Mortara) as a tasty souvenir.

  • Offelle di Parona: Oval dry biscuits, perfect for dipping or taking home.

• Photography: In addition to April/May (water mirrors), consider September/October: the rice is ripe and golden, and the morning fog creates very evocative, almost Gothic atmospheres around the castles.